Hello! Today I am sharing with you a shirt I actually made and photographed in the fall, before Boston was covered in over 3 feet of snow and it was possible to take photos outside without getting frostbite or risk being buried in an avalanche.
We had gotten this plaid flannel – called “Adventure Plaid” in at Grey’s Fabric and it was very popular and almost all bought up right away – and with such fun colors how could it not be? There was a 1 1/4 length left on the bolt, and although I am not generally drawn to plaids in my wardrobe (or orange or navy blue for that matter, ha!), I decided I had to have it and find a way to make something from it. I ruminated on it for a while, and after seeing a Belcarra Blouse made from this exact fabric by one of Grey’s customers on instagram I knew I had to make one for my own. I thought it would be especially cute layered over a long sleeved collared shirt, and so it was decided.
I opted for view C with the sleeve cuffs and cute little pocket. I very carefully arranged and cut the pieces just eeking out what I needed for pattern matching and proper grain placement – It really delights me to optimize pattern piece placement to get the most out of my fabric – it’s like a puzzle! Because I wanted to be sure and cut the plaid properly I cut everything out on the flat, as opposed to on the fold – this technique also really helps you get more from your fabric yardage too. I realized that I would not be able to match the plaid along the curved shoulder seam of the sleeves, so I cut them to match as best as possible along the raglan seams. The pocket and sleeve cuffs were cut on the bias. I thought using the flannel for the bias binding at the neck would be too bulky so I cut the bias binding from a scrap of white cotton.
Assembly went very quickly and without any hiccups. I added topstitching along the raglan seams. I serged my seam allowance to finish the seams – if it were a lighter weight fabric I probably would have opted for french seams, but that would have been much too bulky in this material. I tend to serge pre-construction, being careful not to cut any of the raw edges off so it won’t affect the finished seam allowance and fit – how about you? are you in the pre- or post- construction serging school? While working for the theater costume shop in college we would pre-serge all our seams so perhaps my habit is a lay-over from those times.
I am pleased with the fit – even in such a heavy weight fabric. It is a tad boxy, but still fits well around the chest.
1 1/4 yds Adventure Plaid Flannel
Scrap of white fabric for neck bias binding