One of my favorite details on this make is the care I put into the guts. I knew I would be wearing this jacket open most of the time and I hated the idea of raw seams and floppy facings being visible. Really the only thing keeping the Rigel Bomber from being the perfect pattern is the lack of a lining, so let’s solve that!
To draft a lining you’ll need:
- The Rigel Bomber Jacket pattern by Papercut Patterns
- Tracing paper (wrapping paper or newsprint will also work)
- Paper scissors
For sewing your own lined Rigel bomber you’ll need:
- 2 yards of lining
- The Rigel Bomber Jacket pattern by Papercut Patterns
Supplies outlined in the pattern instructions
- 2 yards of fabric
- 1/2 yard of knit ribbing
- 1/2 yard of fusible interfacing
- 1/4 yard of pocketing
- 14 inch (35cm) separating zip
The Arithmetic of a Lining
The plan for drafting a Rigel Bomber lining is pretty simple. A couple simple modifications to the pattern pieces that make up the jacket body (front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces) and we’ll be on our way. The lining will be attached to the front facings included in the pattern. Therefore we need to remove space along the zipper and neckline of the lining for the facing.
Step 1: Trace your pattern. Trace two copies of the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces (one set will be used for the lining).
Determine your size using the Body Measurements chart included in the pattern. Trace the pattern pieces in your size.
For pattern variation 1: Trace two copies of the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces. One copy of the front, back, and sleeve will be used to cut out the bomber shell from your fashion fabric. The second copy will be used to draft pattern pieces for your lining.
For pattern variation 2: Trace a second set of the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces using the variation 1 lines. The variation 1 pieces will be used to draft your lining.
Please set one copy of the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces aside until we are finished drafting the lining. If you are making variation 2 set aside the variation 2 front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces. From this point on in the drafting when I refer to front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces I am speaking only of the set used in drafting the lining.
Step 2: Remove facing width from center front and neckline of lining pieces.
If you measure the front facing pattern piece you will find that it is 3 3/8 inches (8.5 cm) wide along the entire length. It is an easy detail to forget, but keep in mind that the pattern pieces include 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowances. When the front facing is sewn to the lining the front facing will become 3/8 inch (1 cm) narrower. So the area we need to remove for the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces is 3 inches (7.5 cm).
Use your ruler to draw a seam line (red dashed line) 3 inches from the center front and neckline of the front pattern piece. Draw a seam line (red dashed line) 3 inches from the neckline on the back pattern piece. And since this jacket has a raglan sleeve a portion of the neckline is included in the sleeve pattern piece. Draw a seam line (red dashed line) on the sleeve pattern piece 3 inches from the neckline.
Add a 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance (blue dashed line) to the new seam lines (red dashed line).
Step 3: Cut off excess along new seam allowance (blue dashed line).
Now we can cut along the new seam allowance (blue dashed line) to remove the excess where the front facing will lie.
Step 4: Remove extension from hem of front pattern piece.
Use a ruler to continue the hemline on the front pattern piece removing the small section that extends along the center front. This extension of the front pattern piece runs along the zipper on the jacket shell, but will be taken care of by the front facing on the interior of the bomber.
Step 5: Add 1/2 inch (6mm) to the hem of front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.
3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance doesn’t give a whole lot of room for error and I hate to have my lining mess up the hang of a garment. To avoid this problem add 1/2 inch the hem of your pattern pieces to introduce some ease into the lining. The ribbing is quite thick so you’re in no danger of the lining peaking out your jacket.
And that’s it. You’ve drafted a lining! Now it’s time to cut and sew.
Cut & Sew
Cut out your Rigel bomber as outlined in the pattern instructions. Use your drafted lining pieces to cut 2 lining fronts, 2 lining sleeves, and one lining back from lining fabric (don’t forget to cut the back lining piece on the fold).
Sew bomber as instructed up to step 19. Skip steps 19 and 20 and attach sleeve cuffs as instructed in step 21.
Constructing the Lining
Step 1: Sew sleeve lining to back lining and front lining panels. Sew side and underarm seams.
The body of the lining is constructed just like the jacket shell. Right sides together, sew the front edge of sleeve lining to front lining panels. Sew back edge of sleeve to back lining right sides together. Right sides together, sew the side and underarm in one seam. For more detail refer to pattern instruction steps 10 through 12.
Step 2: At center front fold hem up 7/8 inch (2.3 cm) towards wrong side of lining. Press.
Step 3: Sew front facing to center front and neckline of lining using 3/8 inch (1cm) seam allowance. Be sure that center front hem stays folded when sewn to facing.
Right sides together sew front facing to center front and neckline of lining. Be sure you are sewing along the longest (un-notched edge) of the facing. The center front hem should remain folded when caught in the seam. To account for the ribbing the front facing will extend 2 5/8 inch (6.6 cm) below the folded edge of the lining.
Step 4: Right sides together sew front facing (with lining attached) to jacket shell.
This step is exactly the same as step 19 in the pattern instructions except that you will have a lining attached to your front facing. However everything is sewn exactly the same. I’ve made the seam red in the below illustration for clarity.
When the lining and facing are flipped to the inside of your jacket the folded edge in the lining (see step 2) should line up with your ribbing seam. If this isn’t the case unpick and adjust the lining so it lines up with your ribbing seam.
Step 5: Fold under facing and lining hem 3/8 inch (1 cm) and hand sew to ribbing seam. Fold under hem of sleeve lining and hand sew to cuff seam.
Sorry guys, the way the ribbing is attached I wasn’t able to figure out a clever way to bag the lining. If you’ve broken the code on this I’d love to know. I went ahead and hand finished the lining and facing by folding each raw edge under 3/8 inch and sewing it to the ribbing seams.
Supplies: Rigel Bomber Pattern, 2 yards Grey Quilted Knit, 1/2 yard Black Ribbing, 14 inch Metal Zip, 1 1/2 yards Black Duet Lining, 1 yard Touch of Gold Interfacing, thread. Styling: MAC Ruby Woo matte lipstick, MAC Kiss Me Quick Pro longwear lip pencil, T-shirt me-made, Earrings Jewlmint (Thanks Carrie!).