So this week I made a positively ENORMOUS wool top! I knew I wanted something oversized, but I really outdid myself this time. Oh and guess what? I love it. Ha! If it’s oversized and vaguely mens wear inspired I’m all for it.
While in J. Crew the other day I found myself surrounded by raglans which in turn led to my desperate desire to have one. I honed in on this top specifically. Good news for me there are several raglan patterns knocking around. The Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline and the Belcarra Blouse by Sewaholic come to mind. I actually purchased the Belcarra after seeing an adorable flannel version by Laney (I’m sure she’ll share it with you soon). Tasia has drafted a great pattern that manages to make the raglan sleeve quite fitted. This looks great when sewn as directed, but I found the two piece sleeve much too complicated to lengthen so I did a little dive into my pattern stash and came up with McCall’s 2820.
I’m pretty sure this is the first sewing pattern I ever purchased. I just wish there was a date printed somewhere so I could confirm that statement. I didn’t save my first sewn garment (or maybe I did because I honestly can’t remember what it was), but this pattern is a surviving artifact from that primitive era. I remember my teenage self wandering into JoAnns and realizing that they sold sewing patterns that actually told you how to make cloths. My bold high-school self thought “awesome, if they provide step-by-step instructions surely I won’t have any problem sewing up this rockin’ raglan tee.” And so it begins. In the end it took me 15 years to use this pattern for the first time because along with McCall’s 2820 I purchased a couple pretty little dress patterns that of course won my attention. So I apologize for tickling your urge to hoard, but just think in 15 years you might use that pattern or 2 yards of fabric!
But oh dear, I was supposed to be telling you about my top. Okay so the pattern was sold in two size ranges XS-S or M-L. In knits I have been happily zipping up a size small, but I knew I would need more room with a woven so I graded my small up to a large.
The tuxedo (?) stripe or “go faster stripe” as Jenny called it (the British are so much better at naming things) is 1 1/2 inches wide. To pattern this, I first removed the side seam curve by drawing a straight line between the armscye/side seam corner and the hem/side seam corner. Then I shaved off 3/4 inch from the new front and back side seams. The stripe is very easy just a 2 and 1/8 inch wide (this includes 3/8 seam allowance) rectangle the length of your side seam. The tricky part about adding this stripe was that the top could no longer be sewn in the flat where the underarm and side seams are sewn in one continuous seam. Instead I constructed this top similar to a standard set in sleeve. The underarm and side seams were sewn before the sleeve was attached. I’d love to hear your ideas on construction order when incorporating a tuxedo stripe.
Hmmm what else can I tell you about this make? Oh yes, the fabric! Both wools are from Grey’s. Unfortunately, (well fortunately for me) I purchased most of the unique black tile wool, only 3/4 yards left. The plaid is still knocking around though. And because wool is an itchy beast the top is fully lined with black Robert Kaufman Duet.
Well that’s about it for me today. What’s next on my J. Crew rip-off campaign? Maybe this fringe tank. I’ve been coveting fringe since the finale of Project Runway. Happy sewing!
Supplies: McCall’s 2820, 1 yard Black Tile Coating Wool, 1/2 yard Plaid Suiting Wool, 1 pack Black Single-Fold Bias Tape, 1 1/2 yards Black Duet Lining, thread. Styling: Silk Tie Scarf J Crew, Perforated Leather Vans Slip-On, Brooke Lucky Jeans, MAC Ruby Woo matte lipstick, MAC Kiss Me Quick Pro longwear lip pencil.