Welcome to the final day of the Tap Shorts Sewalong. We’re wrapping things up with a front fly tutorial.
While creating this post we noticed an error with the fly guard pattern piece (pattern piece number 13, figures). The issue has been corrected, but if you purchased the Tap Shorts Pattern before July 12th, 2014 and would like an updated copy please send us an email at email@example.com. We deeply apologize for this mistake. We have learned a ton during the creation and release of our first pattern and plan to use these lessons to improve our work going forward. Thank you again to all our customers and pattern testers for your feedback and support.
If you’ve already printed out view C from a pattern purchased before July 12th and would rather not print it again simply remove 1 1/4 inch from the width of your fly guard. The width of the pattern piece should be 4 inches for all sizes rather than 5 1/4 inches. Again, we sincerely apologize for this error.
Also please ignore the bow and belt loops in this tutorial. I took pictures for this post in combination with pictures for our pattern hack post. Every step of the front fly insertion is exactly the same you just won’t have belt loops or bows to contend with.
Okay let’s get sewing.
Interfacing and Crotch Seam
1. Fuse interfacing (pattern piece 15) to wrong side of fly extension.
Transfer pattern markings to your fabric. In the picture above I have transferred all pattern markings to the wrong side of my fabric. It is actually more helpful to transfer the basting line for front fly and open circle to the wrong side of your fabric and the fold line for right leg as well as top stitching guide for left leg to the right side of your fabric. (Pattern Instructions Step 1)
2. Sew inseam and side seam on both legs. (Pattern Instructions Step 25 and 39) Flip left short leg right side out. Leave wrong side out for right short leg. (Pattern Instructions Step 40)
3. Slip left short leg inside right short leg so right sides are together. (Pattern Instructions Step 40)
4. Pin legs together along crotch seam. (Pattern Instructions Step 40)
5. Starting at the back waistline sew the crotch seam until you reach the open circle marking. At the open circle back tack and switch to a basting stitch. Baste fronts together along the basting line for front fly transferred in step 1. (Pattern Instructions Step 40)
6. Finish crotch seam and press open.
Depending on how your fabric behaves you may need to clip the crotch seam in a couple places or press the crotch seam to one side. If you decide to press your crotch seam to one side reinforce your seam with a short line of stitching 1/8 inch, 3 mm, from the crotch seam at the bottom of the fly extension. Once the seam is reinforces clip into your seam allowance toward the seam at the bottom of the fly extensions. Be careful not to cut any stitching. The point of the clip is to allow you to press the fly extensions open while pressing the rest of the crotch seam to one side. Please refer to the pattern instructions step 40 for an illustration of this. (Pattern Instructions Step 40)
7. If you haven’t done so already transfer the fold line for right leg to the right side of the right fly extension. Isolate the right fly extension from the rest of your shorts along the center front seam by folding the right short leg behind the left short leg. You can see that my shorts and the left fly extension are on the left leaving the right fly extension free. (Pattern Instructions Step 42)
8. Fold the right fly extension along the fold line for right leg. The right side of your fly extension should be facing out. (Pattern Instructions Step 42)
9. Place closed zipper face side up and slip zipper tape under folded right fly extension. I have used a metal zipper in this tutorial so I am going to shorten it from the top of the zipper rather than the bottom as I might for plastic zipper. (Pattern Instructions Step 43)
10. Pin zipper to fly extension. Be sure to leave a little bit of room between the fly extension and zipper teeth so the zipper pull can move freely. (Pattern Instructions Step 43)
11. A view from the back of my zipper pinned to right fly extension. Notice the zipper is pinned only to the folded right fly extension. (Pattern Instructions Step 43)
12. Using a zipper foot sew zipper to right fly extension. (Pattern Instructions Step 43)
Sewing the Fly Guard
13. Right sides together, fold fly guard lengthwise. (Pattern Instructions Step 44)
If you purchased the Tap Shorts Pattern before July 12th 2014 there was an error in the fly guard pattern piece (pattern piece 13). Remove 1 1/4 inch from the width of the fly guard before folding it in half. The width of the pattern piece should be 4 inches for all sizes rather than 5 1/4 inches. If you would like an updated copy of the Tap Shorts Pattern please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
14. Right sides together, sew one short edge of fly guard. Finish seam. (Pattern Instructions Step 44)
15. Flip fly guard so right sides are facing out. Press. Finish raw edges. (Pattern Instructions Step 44)
16. Rotate fly guard so that seamed edge is at the bottom and the folded edge is to the right. Slip the fly guard under the zipper and folded right fly extension. (Pattern Instructions Step 45)
17. Align the the left finished edge of the fly guard with the edge of the right fly extension (see picture 18). Pin fly guard to zipper tape and right fly extension. (Pattern Instructions Step 45)
18. The left finished edge of the fly guard should be even with the edge of the right fly extension. (Pattern Instructions Step 45)
19. Using zipper foot, sew over previous row of stitching (see step 12) through folded right fly extension, zipper, and fly guard. (Pattern Instructions Step 45)
20. Notice that the zipper, fly extension, and fly guard only lie flat when the zipper is to the side of the center front seam. That means you’ve sewn everything correctly. It is important that the zipper is positioned to the side so that it can be hidden when the fly is closed. (Pattern Instructions Step 46)
Finishing Fly Zipper
21. Again fold the right short leg behind the left short leg isolating the zipper fly guard and fly extension.
22. Flip the left fly extension down onto of the zipper, fly extension, and fly guard. Everything sandwich of zipper and right fly extension between the fly guard and left fly extension should lie flat from the center front seam. Pin the left fly extension to the left zipper tape leaving the fly guard free. (Pattern Instructions Step 46)
23. A view from the back of the zipper of the left fly extension pinned to the left zipper tape. Notice that the fly guard remains free. (Pattern Instructions Step 46)
24. Fold the left short leg behind the right short leg isolating the left fly extension and zipper. Sew zipper to left fly extension using zipper foot. Leave enough room between your stitching and zipper teeth for the zipper pull to move freely. (Pattern Instructions Step 46)
25. Turn shorts right side out. Notice my zipper lies to the left of my center seam. (Pattern Instructions Step 47)
26. If you have not done so already transfer top stitching guide for left leg and closed circle to the right side of your fabric.
27. Fold back fly guard so that it will not be aught in topstitching. (Pattern Instructions Step 47)
28. Starting at the waist, sew through left front and left fly extension along topstitching guide. Stop at the closed circle and back tack. Unfold the fly guard and stitch from black circle to the center front catching all layers. If you are using a metal zipper use a pin to mark the location of the zipper stop or teeth so you don’t break a needle. I’ve marked my zipper stop with a blue pin. (Pattern Instructions Step 47)
29. Somewhere along the way I forgot to snap a pic of the waistband and waistband facing. Oopsie! I think the illustration does a nice job of explaining this step too. Sew front waistband pieces to back waistband along side seams. Each waistband should have one full length waistband and one cut along the cut line for right (indicated on the pattern piece).
Often I will wait to cut down one front waistband until I have attached it to my shorts. I find that it can get a little confusing to keep track of which waist band piece goes where and which set is the waistband or the waistband facing. (Pattern Instructions Step 49)
30. Remove basting stitches from center front to open fly zip. (Pattern Instructions Step 48)
Right sides together pin waistband to waistline of shorts. Be sure you are pinning the bottom edge or long side of the waistband to the waistline. Also note that because the waistband is curved, the pattern pieces are the same length along the seam line, but not necessarily along the raw edges. Pin pieces together carefully easing in extra length while matching notches and side seams. (Pattern Instructions Step 50)
31. You’ll notice that when the waistband is pinned in place it extends 5/8 inch past the open zip. You’ll need this seam allowance to finish the short edge of your waistband when attaching the waistband facing. Now is a good time to trim the left front waistband if you didn’t do this in step 29. Make sure you cut along the pattern marking leaving a 5/8 seam allowance for attaching the waistband facing. (Pattern Instructions Step 50)
32. Press seam open. Press seam allowances towards waistband. Trim your zipper if you have not done so already. (Pattern Instructions Step 50)
33. Press the bottom edge of your waistband facing up 5/8 inch. (Pattern Instructions Step 51)
34. Right sides together, pin the waistband facing to the waistband along along the side and upper edges. Keep the bottom edge of the waistband facing folded up. Pin up the waistband seam allowance as well. (Pattern Instructions Step 52)
35. A view from the inside of the fly front. Notice the bottom seam allowance is folded up on the waistband facing and waistband where it extends past the front fly on either side. (Pattern Instructions Step 52)
36. Sew waistband facing to waistband along ends and top. (Pattern Instructions Step 52)
37. Trim seam allowance at waistband corners. (Pattern Instructions Step 53)
38. Flip waistband facing to inside of shorts. Lay waistband/waistband facing seam flat as far as possible pressing seam allowance towards waistband facing. Understitch seam allowance to waistband facing. (Pattern Instructions Step 54)
39. Using a running stitch, hand sew the folded waistband facing to waistline seam allowance. Sew a bar and hook to front waistband. (Pattern Instructions Step 55)