Pattern hack time!
This post is a follow up tutorial for the Tap Shorts Pattern hack I shared yesterday. Tall Sarah is really the genius behind this variation, but I made a pair of my own so I could share a step by step tutorial with you.
Before we start cutting I thought it would be helpful to show a picture of the finished back waistband. I mentioned yesterday how clever this modification was because it allows you to use the same hack for all three views. Yipee! I’ve done the math so that your center back and side back waistband seams line up with the back darts.
Cut and Sew Your Tap Shorts
Cut out your pattern as instructed with the exception of pattern piece 5, the back waistband. You will only cut out one pattern piece 5 from your fabric and interfacing. These will be used for the waistband facing. For the actual back waistband we will need to modify pattern piece 5 to accommodate ties. See the next section Modifying Your Pattern for more details.
You will sew your tap shorts as outlined in the pattern until you arrive at step 28 for view A and B or step 49 for view C.
Modifying Your Pattern
To insert ties into your back waistband (pattern piece 5) you will need to cut this pattern piece into two parts creating a center back waistband and side back waistband pattern piece.
- Measure distance A (see table below) from the center back along the bottom seam line (5/8 inch from the raw edge) and make a mark.
- Draw a line perpendicular to the bottom edge of your back waistband at this mark. Cut your pattern piece along this line
- Add a 5/8 inch seam allowance to both pattern pieces along the line you just cut.
- Cut 1 center back waistband from your fabric on the fold and 1 center back waistband from your interfacing on the fold. Cut two side back waistbands from your fabric and two side back waistbands from your interfacing.
- Fuse interfacing to wrong sides of center and side back waistband pieces.
The belt loops can be cut and sewn as one long strip. Later we will cut this strip into pieces for multiple belt loops.
- For belt loops cut one 2 inch by 6 inch rectangle of fabric.
- Cut two rectangles of fabric 3 1/4 inches wide by measurement B (found in the table below) long. If you’d like to create ties with an angled end as I have done, fold these rectangles in half length-wise and use a ruler to cut a straight angled edge through both thicknesses of one short end.
Sewing Belt Loops
1. Right side of fabric facing out, fold belt loop rectangle in half length-wise. Press fold to create a crease.
2. Open folded fabric. You will use this crease as a guide for folding in your raw edges in the next step.
3. Fold long raw edge in so that it meets the center crease created in steps 1 and 2. Press.
4. Fold second long raw edge to meet center crease. Press.
5. Fold belt loop rectangle along center crease with long edges folded inside. Press.
6. Stitch belt loop along long sides 1/8 inch from edge.
7. Cut belt loop in half to create two belt loops. Measure 4 inches in from center front on front waistband or waistbands in the case of view C and mark. This will be the placement for your belt loops.
If you are sewing view A or B it is very easy to determine the center front of your waistband by folding your fabric in half matching side seams (the fold is your center front).
If you are making view C the front waistband pieces are asymmetrical since the piece that will become the left front waistband is shorter than the right front waistband. Find the right front cut line/grainline. Draw a second line parallel and 5/8 inch in towards the side seam. This is your center front for waistband C and can be transferred to both pattern pieces. I’ve marked my center front lines in orange friction pen.
Baste belt loops to front waistband 5/8 inch from raw edges.
Ties and Back Waistband
8. This is just a quick picture of my two ties. I folded them in half length-wise and cut one short end at an angle to create the mirrored points that you see on each.
9. Right sides together fold your ties lengthwise. Using 5/8 inch seam allowance sew along raw long edge and one short edge (this would be your angled end if you have one) of both ties. Trim seam allowances to 1/4 inch. Trim corner.
10. Turn ties right side out. Draw 5/8 inch seam allowances on your center back waistband (see the Modifying Your Pattern section for more details on this pattern piece). You can see my seam lines in orange friction pen. Match the raw ends of your ties with the short edges of your center back waistband. Center the ties so that they lie between you top and bottom seamline.
Baste your ties in place
11. Once your ties are basted in place your center back waistband should look a little something like this.
12. Right sides together, pin your back side waistbands to your center back waistband. Make sure you are pinning the edge where we cut the original pattern piece rather than a side seam. Your ties should be sandwiched between both side and center back waistband pieces. Sew and finish seam.
13. Press seam allowances towards center back.
Attaching Front Waistband
14. For view A and B
Right sides together, stitch front waistband (pattern piece 4) to back waistband along right side seam. Leave left side seam open. Continue pattern instructions from step 29 to finish your shorts.
For view C
Right sides together, stitch front waistbands (pattern piece 14) to back waistband at side seams. Continue pattern instructions from step 50 to finish your tap shorts.
And that’s all there is to it! Check back tomorrow for Part 7 of the Tap Shorts Sewalong: Welt Pockets.