Hello all, happy Friday!
We’re in the home stretch just a waistband, hem and we’re done, well unless you are interested in welt pockets or a fly front. As in part 5 the construction is identical for both view A and B so let’s get sewing.
Finishing the Waistband
1. Right sides together, sew front and back waistband facings (pattern pieces 4 and 5) along what will become the right side seam. Finish seam (see Part 3 of this sewalong for finishing suggestions). Add a line of stitching 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) from the raw bottom edge. One of my favorite tricks is to use a line of stitching as a pressing guide, it really helps to keep everything even. (Pattern Instructions Step 33)
2. Turn and press the bottom edge of your waistband facing up 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) along stitching. (Pattern Instructions Step 33)
3. Your waistband facing will look a little something like this when it is pressed and ready to go. (Pattern Instructions Step 33)
4. Unzip your invisible zipper and flip out both seam allowances so the zipper tape and seam allowance are visible (see left side of zipper in picture 4). (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
5. Right sides together, pin waistband facing to waistband along seam allowance of zipper side seam. Make sure that the bottom edge of the waistband facing remains folded. (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
6. Sew waistband facing to waistband and zipper tape along seam allowance of zipper side seam. Your stitching should be just to the outside of the zipper teeth. Another way to think of this is your stitching should be close to your zipper teeth, but in the seam allowance. (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
7. Fold waistband and waistband seam allowance away from the zipper side seam so that the seam allowance sits on top of the waistband facing. (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
8. Pin these seam allowances in place. Pin waistband facing to waistband along upper edge. (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
9. Right sides together sew waistband facing to waistband along top edge catching the twisted seam allowance pinned in step 8. If you are piping the edges of your waistband use your zipper foot to get stitching right up against round side of piping. (Pattern Instructions Step 34)
10. Trim seam allowance of waistband corners to reduce bulk. Be careful to not cut through stitching. (Pattern Instructions Step 35)
11. Press waistband/waistband facing seam open. (Pattern Instructions Step 35)
12. Press waistband/waistband facing seam allowance towards waistband facing. (Pattern Instructions Step 35)
13. Stitch your seam allowance to the waistband facing 1/8 to 1/4 inch from seam, this is known as understitching. Understitching prevents the waistband facing from popping out over the waistband and becoming visible. You can read more about understitching here and here. Your side seams are already attached to the zipper tape and seam allowances so it will be impossible to understitch the entire top edge. Just sew as far as possible without creating tucks or wrinkles. Understitching won’t be visible when you wear your tap shorts, it simply helps keep the facing in place so don’t stress over this step.
14. I used the term running stitch in the Tap Shorts Pattern instructions, but the more accurate term would be to slip stitch your folded waistband facing to the seam allowance of your waistband.
In the Tap Shorts Pattern Instructions we teach you to finish your shorts with a basic hem. Ain’t nothin wrong with a classic. However my favorite finish for tap shorts utilizes single fold bias tape and blind stitching. I’ve chosen to share this method with you below.
15. Try on your Tap Shorts and decide on your hem length. You can try out different hem lengths by folding up the raw hem edge and pinning it in place. Once you have decided on your favorite length mark the bottom folded edge with tailor’s chalk or another fabric marking tool. Measure one inch below your desired hem line and mark a second line. This will be your hem allowance. Cut along this second line to remove excess fabric and even the raw edge of your hem allowance.
16. Unfold one edge of your bias tape and pin it to the raw edge of your hem. After pining around entire length of hem, cut the bias tape to fit, but be sure to overlap the cut ends at least 1/2 inch. Sew you bias tape to the right side of your shorts along the fold in your bias tape.
17. Press your bias tape towards the raw edge of your seam allowance. You can understitch your bias tape to the raw edge of your hem as I have, but this step is optional. Fold and press your hem along your marked hemline. Make sure the top of your bias tape is folded over for a clean finish (the first mark made in step 15).
18. Blind stitch your hem catching just one or two threads of your fabric.
Guess what!?! You made shorts!!!!
Share your creations with us using the hashtag #tapshorts. We can’t wait to see what you’ve made! If you’re looking for inspiration take a peek at our pinterest board to see what others have dreamed up. And check back Monday July 21st to see finished photos of the shorts made in this sewalong.