You may have notice a significant change in scenery (or absence of snow) because this post I’m in gorgeous New Orleans! I can’t even tell you how beautiful this city is; crypts, palms, Spanish moss, balconies, hot sauce, Mardi Gras, and 70 degree weather to mention a few of its many wonders. Recently I’ve asked for plane tickets rather than shoes or what not for my birthday. I have to say this has been one of my more inspired ideas. Happy Birthday to me! But this isn’t a travel blog so lets talk sewing.
My dress was completely inspired by the fabric. I had no maxi dresses planned until this floral knit arrived at Grey’s Fabric and Notions. I knew it had to be mine, actually Sarah knew it had to be mine because she instagramed a photo addressed to me. EVIL! But you don’t argue with destiny.
With glorious fabric in hand I had to decide on a silhouette. To my mind this was the perfect opportunity to join the Lady Skater/Skaterfrew craze that has been sweeping through the blogs, ours being no exception. I also consulted a couple looks from Erdem’s 2013 resort collection to put my own twist on a Renfrew (bodice)- Lady Skater (skirt) mash-up. I’ve outlined my alterations below, but the major changes were to the Renfrew neckline and lengthening the Lady Skater skirt. A little tip for anyone who hasn’t played with neckline alterations, when creating a scoop neck or altering a hem you want to intersect the midline (in the case of both these patterns the center fold line) at a 90 degree angle. The edge does not need to run 90 degrees to the center for very long, but if you intersect at a angle you with create a point like you see on v neck shirts.
Erdem Resort Collection 2013
- First I shorted the Renfrew shoulder seams on both front and back pieces from 3 1/2 inches to 2 1/2 inches.
- Second I raised the front neckline of the Renfrew pattern 2 1/4 inches at the front center fold
- The back neckline is lowered 7 1/2 inches from the original pattern at the back center fold (you could even scoop down another couple inches without your bra showing which I think I will do next time).
- So this is where I get tricky, well a little tricky. I bought the floral fabric purely for print, no denying that, but as an extra bonus it is deliciously silky and drapey which also means quite thin. I wasn’t convinced that the floral knit alone would have enough body for a fitted bodice so I underlined the front and back bodice (modified Renfrew pieces) with a stable knit from my stash. When I cut the stable knit I added 1/8 inch to all the seam allowances so that the floral knit would have to be stretched ever so slightly to line up with the edges of the stable knit. I believe this avoided any drooping of the thinner floral knit over the stable knit.
- The skirt is from the Lady Skater pattern by Kitchy Coo, however three yards gets gobbled up real quick in a circle skirt, especially a full length circle skirt. I adjusted the skirt flare to fit the skirt pieces onto the three yards I bought. My skirt flares 21 1/2 inches from the center fold on both the back and front pieces.
- And finally a guilty confession, because I just barely fit the maxi skirt on my fabric I didn’t hem the skirt to save all the length I could. For continuity (also know as laziness) I didn’t hem the sleeves. Fortunately ITY, interlock twist yarn, knits don’t roll at the edges a fact that Sarah told me with great enthusiasm and I poo pooed until realizing I hadn’t purchased enough yardage for a hem. Yeah, I’m now a big cheerleader of the many amazing virtues of ITY knits. Haha!